Originally, the business hub of Manila was along the Pasig River but with the silting and pollution over the years, most businesses and associated retail centers have moved outwards.

South of the City of Manila but still within the urban area is Makati City, considered as the financial capital of the country. Along Ayala Avenue rise modern skyscrapers, which are home to multinational companies, foreign embassies and commercial banks. The trendiest leisure spots - hotels, restaurants, bars, music lounges, fashion boutiques and department stores - converge around the sleek Ayala Center and the adjacent Glorietta Shopping Mall. Across EDSA is the subdivision of Forbes Park, home of the country's rich and famous. If you have the time it is worth the 10-minute walk along McKinley Road (really an extension of Ayala Avenue) to the San Antonio Village Shopping Center. This is a much smaller and very exclusive enclave but there are some nice coffee shops and restaurants in the area. The San Antonio Basilica is just across the road and - if church architecture is your thing - is also worth a look.

While in Makati you might also want to check out the newer shopping area of Rockwell. The Rockwell Center was only built at the turn of the millennium and for sheer opulence it is hard to beat. Go of an evening and sample the street life as all the restaurants spread out onto the surrounding streets in what appears to be a permanent fiesta atmosphere. Rockwell is a P50 taxi ride from Ayala Station.

One area that now competes with Makati in terms of its modern architectural landscape is the Ortigas Center between Mandaluyong City and Pasig City, slightly to the north. Home to the Asian Development Bank (ADB), it is also the site of three of the country's richest shopping malls - SM Megamall, Robinson's Galleria, and Shangri-la EDSA Plaza. Also within Ortigas is the striking leisure enclave, Saint Francis Square, with its fine restaurants and fashionable music lounges.

Moving further south, the other commercial district worth checking out is Alabang. This is a new development by Filinvest and what is there now is only a small fraction of what is planned for the future. Unfortunately the Asian Financial Crisis of the late nineties put a break on investment into the area but in terms both of quality accommodation - office and hotel as well as shopping and entertainment, Alabang is well worth adding to the list.

From Makati you can take either a bus or a taxi along the South Superhighway right to the Alabang Town Center doorstep.

For the real shopaholics who want to go further afield, there is Fairview in the North of the city but not really recommended unless you are familiar with the city or going along with Filipino friends and to the South - just outside the boundaries of the National Capital Area and into Cavite province you will discover the SM Mall at Bacoor. Again you can take either a taxi along the Roxas Coastal Highway extension or take the airconditioned bus that leaves from the Bus station adjacent to the Taft/Edsa intersection. Jeepney's and their air-conditoned counterparts - the FXs are a further option and most leave from the Baclaran markets adjacent to the Redemptorist Church.

Manila is the home of shopping malls and there are many more options although most cater to the domestic rather than international visitors. However two other centers, which are favored haunts of foreigners seeking the real bargains are the various Complexes at Cubao and the Tutuban center at Divisoria.

The best way to get to Cubao is to take the MRT Line 3 and alight at the Cubao station. You can spend the best part of a day meandering among the various air-conditioned malls and non air-conditioned dry, wet and flea markets. This is really a city within a city and whole streets are dedicated to selling nothing but shoes, flowers and many other items - at very reasonable prices.

North of Chinatown is the area known as Recto and which leads into Divisoria. Now you are really in the heartland of Manila. The best way to get here is by public transport and using the Light Rail Transit - Line 1. Alight at either Recto or D. Jose stations and walk or use a local jeepney to take you to the Tutuban.

A word of warning if visiting either Cubao or Divisoria. Pickpockets, phone and purse snatchers are known to be especially prevalent in these areas and you are well-advised to keep a tight grasp on your belongings and leave expensive items at home.